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Places of Interest in Leh Ladakh

Leh - Town

Leh offers a number of options to the visitors for sightseeing. It is a historic town that served as the royal capital of the Old Kingdom and is dominated by the nine-storey palace built by King Singge Namgyal in the grand tradition of Tibetan architecture, which is said to have inspired the famous Potala in Lhasa built about half a century later.
Just above the palace, on the Namgyal Tsemo hill, are the ruins of a fort which was the earliest royal residence built by King Tashi Namgyal in the 16th century. The associated temples remain intact, but they are kept locked except during the morning and evening hours, when a monk from Sankar Gompa hikes up the hill to attend to the butter-lamps in front of the images.

The main sites to visit, down in the historic bazaar are the Jo-khang, a newly built Buddhist temple and the imposing historic mosque founded in the late 17th century standing opposite. A stroll along the main bazaar, observing the varied crowd and looking into the curio shops is an engaging experience for locals and the visitors. Just behind the main bazaar, Chang Gali is less bustling but has interesting little shops selling curios and Jewellery. In the other direction, are the Tibetan markets where one can bargain for pearls, turquoise, coral, lapis lazuli and many other kinds of semi-precious stones and jewellery, as well as carved yak-horn boxes, quaint brass locks, china or metal bowls, or any of a whole array of curios

One can strike away from the bazaar, past Zangsti and the Moravian Church to the Ladakh Ecological Centre and observe the work being done by this NGO in applying folk technology to meet the demands of modern life in Ladakh. A footpath from here, across the fields leads to Sankar Gompa, which is half an hour’s walk away.

Or one can leave the main road from the bazaar near the Moravian Church and turn to Changspa, an attractive suburb of Leh, lying below the hill on which stands the imposing Ladakh Shanti Stupa, which can be reached by a winding road. Down the Tourist Information Centre in the old dak Bungalow, follow the Fort Road to Skara, another pretty and prosperous suburb of Leh, and admire the earthen ramparts of Zorawar Singh’s fort. This road continues onward, swinging around the village to meet the main highway near a crossroad, where the roads from Srinagar and Manali meet. A branch of this road turns southward and traverses the interior of Skara to meet the main highway near the airport, an excellent drive through the heart of a sprawling village.

There are plenty of attractive sightseeing and walking destinations within a 10-km radius of Leh. Sabu, a charming village with a small gompa, nestles between two minor spurs of the Ladakh range, about 9 kms away from the town. In the same direction, but nearer town is Choglamsar, with the Tibetan refugee settlement including a children’s village, a handicrafts centre devoted largely to carpet weaving and the Dalai Lama’s prayer-ground, Jiva-tsal. And in the opposite direction, about 8 kms on the Srinagar road, is the turning for Spituk village and its imposing monastery.


Monasteries


Central Ladakh has the greatest concentration of major Buddhist monasteries or gompas. The head lama is called a ‘kushak’, meaning reincarnation. The oldest monastery is that of Lamayuru, which is believed to have been a sacred site for the pre-Buddhist religion known as Bon. The monasteries of Phiyang, Hemis and Chemrey were all founded under the direct patronage of members of the ruling Namgyal dynasty. Stakna, dating from a slightly earlier period, was endowed by the Namgyal kings at various times. All these monasteries belong to the Red Hat (Kargyud-Pa) sect of Tibetan monasticism.

The reformist Gelugs-pa, or Yellow-Hat sect, is also well represented in central Ladakh by the monasteries of Thiksey, Likir, Ri-dzong and Spituk, the last of which has branch monasteries at Stok, Sabu and Sankar. Ri-dzong, situated a few kilometres up a side-valley from Uley-Tokpo.

Tak-thok and Matho gompas represent the smaller but much older Nying-ma-pa and Saskya-pa monastic sects respectively.

The jewel among Ladakh’s monastic foundations is Alchi, the nearest functioning monastery. It has been lovingly maintained by the monks of Likir as a place of active worship for centuries. It is also known as Chos-kor, or religious enclave, which comprises five temples, the richest in paintings and images being the Du-khang (assembly hall) and the three-storey Sum-tsek. The murals date from the 11th and 12th centuries, pre-date the Tibetan style of painting seen in all the other gompas of the region.

Lamayuru Monastery
Founded in the 10th century, Lamayuru monastery is about 125 kms west of Leh. As the legend goes, Lamayuru was a lake. It was blessed by a Lama after which the water of the lake receded up to the mountains leaving place for the monastery to be built. Now mostly in ruins, only the main hall exists today and houses numerous tankhyas. The Yundrung Kabgyad festival is held during summer on the 28th and 29th days of the 2nd Tibetan month. Lamayuru has fascinating caves carved out of the mountainside. Also known as Yung Drung (Swastika) it is sited on a high promontory overlooking the village and valley. For sheer spectacle value no other gompa can match Lamayuru.

Hemis Gompa
Hemis is the largest monastery in Ladakh and was built in 1630. It belongs to the red sect, Brokpa. It lies at a distance of 45 km south of Leh. The annual festival, commemorating the birth anniversary of Guru Padmasambhava, is held for two days in June-July, enlivening the courtyard of the monastery. The festival of dances, where good triumphs over evil in a colorful pageant, is also the annual ‘bazaar’ where Ladakhis from remote areas buy and sell wares.

Stakana Monastery
Was built in 1580 by great scholar saint chosje Jamyang Palkar during the reign of king Jamyang Namgyal. The Stakna monastery is 45 Km south of Leh, built on a hill shaped Stakna (Tiger nose).

Thiksey Monastery
Is about 20 kms from Leh. Thiksey is an imposing monastery and one of the finest example of Ladakhi architecture. This Gompa is situated on the top of the hill and forms part of Gelukpa order. Paldan Sherab nephew of Sherb Zangpo constructed the Thiksey monastery.

The 12 storey monastery complex contains numerous stupas, statues, thankas, wall paintings, swords and a large pillar engraved with the Buddha’s teachings. There are sacred shrines and a many precious objects to be seen here. The successive reincarnation of the Skyabje Khampo Ringpoche act as incharge of the monastery. Thiksey gustor (festival) held from 17th to 19th day of the 12th month. The main prayer hall has a 15 meters high seated Buddha figure.

Likir Monastery
It is located around 52 Kms from Leh. Also known as Klu-Kkhjil (water spirits) it was founded in the 11th century AD and was rededicated to another monastic order (the yellow sect) in the 15th century. Its earlier gompa was destroyed in fire. The present gompa dates back to the 18th century. It contains huge clay images of Buddha and various old manuscripts. It also houses an interesting collection of thankas, old religious and domestic costumes and implements etc. In the 15th century Lhawang Lodos Sangphu caused the monastery to flourish. This monastery also belongs to Gaylukpa school. Every year from the 17th to 19th of the 12th month the Likir festival is held.

Spituk Monastery
Spituk Gompa is on the hill top near Indus, around 18 Kms from Leh. The Gompa was founded in 11th century by Od-De. The Gompa was named Spituk (exemplary) by Rinchen Zangpo, a translator who came to this place and said that the exemplary religious community would rise. Initially it belonged to the Kadampa school.

The Spituk festival is held every year from 17th to 19th days of the 11th month. It houses a collection of ancient masks, antique arms, icons and numerous thankas. Higher up the hill is the Mahakal Temple, containing the shrine of Vajrabhairava. The terrifying face of Vajrabhairva is unveiled only at the annual festival in January

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa
The Namgyal Tsemo Gompa was built in 1430. It contains a three-story high Buddha image and ancient manuscripts and frescoes. The fort above this gompa is ruined, but the views of Leh from here are breathtaking.

Sankar gompa
The Sankar gompa is located a couple of kilometers north of the town center. The gompa belongs to the Gelukpa order and has an impressive impression of the Buddhist deity Avalokiteshwara Padmahari or Chenresig, with 1,000 arms and an equal number of heads.

Cave Monastery
The cave monastery of Shergole is small but this old Buddhist monastery has elegant frescoes. It juts out of a brown, granite cliff and appears as if suspended in the middle of the mountain. This architectural quirk makes it an object of curiosity among local people too.

Shey Monastery
Situated on a hillock 15 km south of Leh, was once the residence of the royal family & it was constructed by the first king of Ladakh, Lhachen Palgyigon. According to tradition, it was the seat of power of the pre-Tidetan kings. Around 12 Ft. Shakyamuni Buddha’s statue made by copper guilt is the largest in the region, built by Deldan Namgyal in 1633 is a funerary memorial to his father, king Singee Namgyal. There is another statue of the Buddha three stories in height.Stone carving and many chortens are scattered around the Dresthang Gompa. On the 30th day of the 1st Tibetan month shey rul-lo is celebrated and on the 10th day of the 7th Tibetan month the festival of Shey Surb-lo is held.

Phugtal Gompa
The Phugthal complex spills out of the mouth of a huge cave high up in the sheer mountain face of a lateral gorge through which a major tributary of the southern Lungnak (Lingti-Tsarap) River flows. Perhaps, the most isolated monastic establishment of Zanskar, its foundation date back to the early 12th century. Phugthal is accessible from the Padum-Manali trekking route through a 7 km long trail that branches off from the Purney Bridge on the main trail. This unique monastic establishment is inhabited by a resident community of about 40 monks.

Zongkhul Monastery
Zongkhul is the spectacular cave monastery of Zanskar and falls on the Padum-Kishtwar trekking trail, just before the ascent of Omasi-la Pass. Situated like a Swallow’s nest on the rock face of the Ating Gorge, the monastery is associated to the famous Indian Yogi, Naropa, who lectured in the Nalanda and Vikramsila Universities. The two caves present in the monastery are said to have been used by the famous Yogi for the solitary meditation. A footprint on the stone near the ingress of the lower cave is reserved as that of the yogi. The frescos on the cave walls are very old and reflect a high degree of artistic achievement. These are believed to be the original murals executed by Zhadpa Dorje, the celebrated scholar-painter of the same monastery who was active about 300 years ago.

Alchi Gompa
On the banks of the Indus is the Alchi Gompa, dating thousand years back. One of its walls features thousands of miniature sized pictures of the Buddha. Three large sized images made of clay and painted brightly are its focal attraction. No longer an active religious center, it is looked after by monks from the likir monastery.

Note for visitors to Monasteries
The monasteries of Ladakh are the fountainhead of Buddhist religion and culture. They are also the repositories of the region’s centuries old artistic and cultural heritage. Visitors are advised to respect their sanctity and appreciate their heritage importance. Shoes may have to be removed before entering some of the temples, while ladies are not allowed to enter the Gon-Khang or the room dedicated to the guardian divinities. Smoking is anathema to the monastic atmosphere, while loud action and improper dress may disturb the tranquil ambience characteristic of such places of worship. Most of the region’s principal monasteries are open throughout the day and a caretaker lama is there to show visitors around. Some of the less visited establishments have special opening hours as in the case of the Namgyal Tsemo, Shey Palace etc. Most monasteries charge a small entrance fee.

Monuments

The historic monuments and major Buddhist gompas (monasteries) are the main tourist attractions of Ladakh. The Indus Valley, particularly from Upshi down to Khalatse, which is the region’s historic heartland, is dotted with all the major sites connected with the former kingdom’s dynastic history, starting with Leh, the capital, since the building of its nine-storey Leh palace in the early 17th century. A few kilometres up the Indus is the Shey Palace, most ancient capital, with its palace and temples. Down the river, Basgo, right on the road, and Tingmosgang, a short distance up a side-valley, both served as royal capitals when the Old Kingdom was temporarily divided into two parts in the 15th century. Both these places have the remains of forts and temples dating from the period of their brief glory. Just across the river from Leh lies Stok, the village with which the deposed royal family was compensated for the loss of the throne. Stok Palace, where the royal family now lives, houses a museum of artifacts associated with the dynasty.

Leh Palace
The Leh Palace rises from the edge of a hill overlooking the town and stretches out to the sky. A miniature version of the Potala in Lhasa, the Leh Palace is one of the major attractions in ladakh. The nine storied palace was built in the 17th century but it is now dilapidated and deserted. It was the home of the royal family until they were exiled to Stok in the 1830s. Above the palace, at the top of the Namgyal hill, is the Victory Tower, built to commemorate Ladakh’s victory over the Balti Kashmir armies in the early 16th century. This palace was built for King Singge Namgyal and now houses the Ladakhi branch of the Indian Government’s archaeological conservation organization.

Shanti Stupa
The Shanti Stupa was built by a Japanese order and was opened by the Dalai Lama in 1985. From the top, one can view the exotic locales nearby. The stupa is located at a distance of 3 km from the Fort Road.

Stok Palace
At the top of a huge moraine of pebbles swept down from the mountains, the elegant four-storey Stok Palace stands above barley terraces studded with threshing circles and whitewashed farmhouses. Built early in the 19th century by the last ruler of independent Ladakh, it has been the official residence of the Ladakhi royal family since they were ousted from Leh and Shey two hundred years ago.

A former member of parliament still lives here during the summer. One of the rooms is converted into Museum. The fascinating collection comprises some of the family’s most precious heirlooms, including antique ritual objects, ceremonial tea paraphernalia, and exquisite sixteenth-century thangkas illuminated with paint made from crushed rubies, emeralds and sapphires.

Still worn on important occasions, the ancient headdresses, thought to have originated in Tibet, are encrusted with slabs of flawless turquoise, polished coral, lapis lazuli and nuggets of pure gold. A couple of swords whose blades were allegedly tied in knots as a demonstration of strength by King Tashi Namgyal Phugtal Gompa are also of interest.

Lakes in Leh Ladakh

Tsomoriri Lake
Mountain Lake- is situated in the middle of the elevated valley of Rupshu. This valley is inhabited by a small scattered population of -Changpas- nomadic shepherds who also engage in trade and work in caravans in Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti. The Area is rich in wildlife: the -Kyang- (wild ass), red fox and the rare, highly endangered, snow leopard. Black necked cranes and geese flock to the lakeside for breeding during the summer months. It also houses 350 years old Karzok monastery which has about 33 resident monks.

Pangong Lake
Pangong Lake is 160 kms from Leh and the trip is a wonderful experience. Beginning with Thiksey village, which is famous for its huge monasteries covering an entire mountain ridge. There is nothing but the extreme mountain ridge beyond this remote village. The topography throughout the journey shoots up abruptly and throw off all calculations of distance. At times, it appears as if so many of nature’s forces are warning at the steep slopes and uneasy bends. There is a chain of war memorials with Regimental Insignias in commemoration of the soldiers who lost their lives during the Indo-Chinese war of 1962 at Darbuk village near Tangste Valley. Some of the army bunkers and trenches are still in use. Villagers can be seen here along with their large herds of Pashmina sheep and long tailed yaks.

The placid Pangong Lake is not just a tourist’s paradise but a geologist’s domain too!

Passes

There are many passes in Ladakh which serve as the natural gate passes to this land of jagged peaks.

Zojila Pass
Zojila is one of the highest mountain passes in the world. The strategic Srinagar-Ladakh highway passes through this 11,578 foot high pass which lies on the lower depression of the Himalayan ranges, about 100 km from Srinagar. The pass attracts the heaviest snowfall during winter. It remains closed to traffic for nearly six months in a year. The accumulation of huge quantities of snow over Zojila pass becomes the biggest hurdle to traffic on this road. The 434-km long highway is Ladakh’s lifeline.

Khardungla Pass
At 18,380 ft. the world’s highest motorable road & gateway to Siachen Glacier is Khardungla Pass. It is just 40 km north of Leh by road on the way to the Nubra and connects Leh to the Nubra Valley. Although one needs a permit to visit the Nubra Valley it is not necessary to have a permit just to ride to the top of the pass. The ride itself is quite good, providing exquisite views of Leh, and at the top one can see the Karakorum range to the north of the pass, and then by turning 180 degrees see the Himalayas back towards Leh. The descent from the checkpoint is fantastic because of it being long.

Valleys

Drass Valley
Drass Valley is an enchanting valley formed by the Drass River which rises in the Machoi glacier near the famous Zojila Pass. The river is joined in its course by many other rivers and streams flowing in from snowfields. The river Shigar flowing in from the north drains into the Drass River. As the snow melts in summer the volume of this river rises considerably. It meets the Suru River near Kharul a short distance away from Kargil. The terrain is characterized by rock and stones with the occasional greenish patches formed by willow and groves.

The short summer season in the Drass Valley begins in May. Crop sowing activities start late, while harvesting is done early so that the crops are brought in before the beginning of snowfall.

The Brokpas are the inhabitants of Drass Valley who migrated to this tract from Gilgit several centuries ago. They grow mainly barley and other coarse cereals due to lack of irrigation facilities in many parts of Drass. Poor and unproductive soil and the short growing season add to the poor agriculture. As a result, food grains have to be imported from Kashmir Valley. Fuel too is a scarce commodity and has to be brought in from across the Zojila Pass.

Nubra Valley
-Flowering glen- or a -coveted treasure-. In early summers, Nubra is clad in endless bushes of yellow and pink wild roses. Once the season of roses descends, a carpet of wild lavender lies gently on the valley. Nubra is relatively warmer valley in Ladakh and helps in cultivating crops and fruits, making Nubra the Ldumra or orchard of Ladakh.

Diskit is amongst the larger villages in the region dotted with apricot plantations, and home to the 350 year-old Diskit Gompa - the oldest, and the largest monastery in the Nubra Valley. Diskit has a number of hotels and guest houses. The road between Diskit and the little Hunder Village winds through a gorgeous stretch of sand dunes. One should keep his eyes open for the double-humped camels at Hunder! The Hunder Gompa has some old frescos and a statue of Buddha. The monastery is also the best place in the village for a view of the sunset.

Salt Lake Valley
The Salt Lake Valley is one of the widest open areas in Rupshu with a length of about 20 km and a width of about 7 km. Its average elevation is 5,000 m and can be reached from Leh through the Tanglang La pass. Thuggi is the main settlement of the Salt Lake Valley. There are two lakes in this valley - the fresh water Panluk Lake with an area of about 2 sqr. kms and the salt-water Tsokar Lake with an area of about 10 sqr kms. Deposits of impure salt occurring on the northern shore of the Tsokar Lake are collected by the Changpas and used as barter to obtain goods from other parts of Ladakh.

Shylok Valley
The Shylok Valley is the valley of the river of death - Shylok River. This is a Central Asian name, probably given by the Central Asian traders who ventured on this treacherous route for centuries and perished. Rising from the Khumdang glacier this can be approached from Shylok. The Shylok River takes a southerly course after it is joined by the Nubra River. Nubra and Changchenmo rivers fill the waters of Shylok River.

The river freezes in winter forming an easy access between the Khaplu and the Nubra valleys. In summer, as the snow melts in the uplands, the river overflows its banks and inundates the surrounding plain for many kilometers, at times creating a vast marsh. During this period, the Shylok River has to be crossed on rafts of inflated skin.

Suru Valley
The elevation of the Suru valley is 3,000 m. Winters are very severe with heavy and frequent snowfalls. Though the Suru Valley does not become as inhospitable as the Drass Valley. The cold season begins around mid-November and usually continues till May. During this period, most of the valley is covered with a thick layer of snow. The Suru Valley is formed by the catchments of the Suru River, which rises from the Panzella glacier. On its way to the confluence with the Indus River at Nurla it is joined by numerous tributaries, including the Drass River which flows into the Suru River at Kharul.

The topography is as rugged and mountainous as most of Ladakh. However, the Suru Valley is relatively more fertile. It extends from the Panzella glacier to south of Kargil town, where the Suru River merges with the Botkul River rising from the Botkul glacier.

Agriculture is the main source of livelihood for the people of this valley as the valley is blessed with a relatively longer summer which begins in May. The main crops raised by the people of Suru Valley are wheat, barley and millets. Improved varieties of wheat have recently been introduced. Some of the vegetables grown here are turnip, radish, peas and black peas. Grapes, apricots and melons are cultivated in fairly large quantities at Darchik and Garkoon along the lower course of the Indus through Ladakh. These find a ready market in Kargil. Liquor from grapes is also produced.

Indus Valley
This large valley is formed by the main channel of the Indus River as it flows across Ladakh. It includes parts of Leh district, the Skardu region and the vast cold deserts beyond. This valley consists of large stretches of undulating lands interspersed by high mountains across which there are many passes. The Indus Valley is the soul of Ladakh and is strategically the most important part.

Kargil
Located in the centre of the Himalayan region with tremendous potentials for adventure activities, Kargil serves as an important base for adventure tours in the heart of Himalayas. 234 kms from Leh in the east, it is also the take off station for visitors to the erotic Zanskar Valley. It is a base for taking shorter excursions to Mulbek where the chief attraction is a 9-m high rock sculpture depicting the future Buddha. Kargil also offers some interesting walks along the river bank and up the hills. The best among these is the one leading to Goma Kargil. A stroll in the bazaar might lead to a shop selling flint and tobacco pouches, travelling hookahs and brass kettles - handcrafted items of everyday use which find their way into the mart as curios. Most shops deal in common consumer goods, but some specialize in trekking provisions also. The showroom of the Government Industries Centre near the riverbank displays and sells Pashmina Shawls, local carpets and other woolen handicrafts. The apricot jam produced here serves as a rare delicacy. Kargil is famous for the fine apricots grown here.
The town lies along the rising hillside of the lower Suru basin. 2 tributaries of the Suru River that meet here are the Drass and Wakha. The land available along the narrow valley is intensively used to cultivate barley, wheat, peas, a variety of vegetables and other cereals. In May the entire countryside becomes awash with fragrant white apricot blossoms while in August the ripening fruit lends it an orange hue.

Sankoo
Sankoo is a picturesque township surrounded with numerous villages and colourful Rocky Mountains all around. Dense plantation of poplars, willows and wild roses fill the bowl-shaped valley, giving it the ambience of a man-made forest. Two side valley drained by large tributary streams of the Suru River, the Kartse flowing from the east and the Nakpo-chu descending from the west, open up on either side of the expanse
Sankoo is very popular among local picnic lovers, who throng the area from Kargil town and other places. It is also popular for the shrine of a Muslim scholar-saint, Sayed Mir Hashim, who was specially invited from Kashmir for imparting religious teachings to the region’s Buddhist ruler Thi-Namgyal of the Suru principality. The shrine is situated in the village of Karpo-Khar on the outskirts of Sankoo, where the ruler had his summer palace.

Rangdum Valley
Rangdum (3657 m) is the farthest and most isolated part of the Suru valley and is surrounded by colourful hills on the one side and glacier-encrusted rocky mountains on the other. Situated 130 kms south-east of Kargil, it falls between Kargil and Padum. Visitors to Padum (Zanskar) generally prefer to break the gruelling 240 km-long road journey for an overnight halt here. Set amidst spectacular surroundings, Rangdum is a convenient area for camping in the Himalayan wilderness while being sufficiently near a road head. In the late afternoon the setting sun lends the valley an ethereal ambience, as the ochre hills turn aflame, while the snow covered peaks sparkle with a reddish hue in the distant horizon.

View of Rangdum valley
The main attraction of Rangdum is the 18th century Buddhist monastery of the Geluks-pa with about 40 resident monks. Perched picturesquely atop a central hillock, the monastery has the aura of an ancient fortification guarding a mystical mountain valley. Its central prayer hall houses an array of figures and art objects. Two small hamlets surrounded by rows of chortens, Yuldo and Tashi-Tongze, situated on either side of the monastery, are the only other habitations in the area. The inhabitants of these villages are descendants of the monastery’s agricultural serf-tenants, who do not own any land in the region. The monastery enjoys perpetual and unalienable ownership of the entire valley, including the fields tilled by the villagers, the pastures, hills and even the streams.

Row of Stupas at Rangdum
Rangdum is an important trekking base also. The most popular trek from here leads to Henaskut on the Kargil-Leh highway, across the Kanji valley gorge. This 5-day trek is also the last leg of the 2-week long trans-Himalayan traverse between Kashmir and Ladakh. Among the shorter treks, the best is a hike up the Penzila Ridge, to camp for a night or two opposite the majestic Drang-Drung Glacier. The trek to Shafat valley where the Nun-Kun base camp is situated, involves walking down the valley, along the road to the campsite of Gulmatongo (20 kms), and crossing the Suru River on a foot bridge to enter the Shafat Nallah, onto the Shafat Glacier for camping.